Kuzu Tandır (Slow-Roasted Lamb) vs Pissaladière: Caramelized Onion and Anchovy Tart from Nice

Kuzu tandır and pissaladière share garlic, olive oil, thyme, onion and pepper, yet they put these ingredients to very different work. In the lamb dish, garlic and thyme perfume meat that roasts slowly for hours until it falls from the bone, while the onion melts into rich, savory juices. The tart instead cooks its onions down into a sweet, jammy layer over crisp dough, then sharpens it with salty anchovy and briny black olives. One is tender, deep and meaty; the other is bright, crunchy and assertively savory.